Sartor Resartus restored : dress studies in Carlylean perspective / William J. F. Keenan -- Comparative exploration of dress and the presentation of self as implicit religion / Eileen Barker -- "Informalizing spurt" in clothing regimes : court ballet in the civilizing process / Norman R. Gabriel -- Land of hip and glory : fashioning the "classic" national body / Alison Goodrum -- Multiple meanings of the Hijab in contemporary France / Malcolm D. Brown -- Gestus manifests Habitus : dress and the Mormon / Douglas R. Davies -- Vampires and goths : fandom, gender and cult dress / Milly Williamson -- Fall and rise of erotic lingerie / Dana Wilson-Kovacs -- Dress freedom : the personal and the political / William J. F. Keenan.